A Walk into a modern supermarket and you may find a shelf of grains with names such as millet, sorghum, spelt and quinoa. They are often sold as ancient grains, a term that has no strict scientific definition. It is usually applied to cereals and seeds that have changed little through selective breeding, in contrast with modern wheat and rice, which have been developed intensively for higher yields.
B One reason for their return is nutrition. Many of these grains contain more fibre and certain minerals than refined wheat flour, and some are free of gluten, which makes them useful for people who cannot eat it. A second reason is resilience. Millet and sorghum, for example, can grow in dry conditions and poor soils where other crops fail, and farmers in regions that are becoming hotter and drier see this as a valuable advantage.
C There are obstacles, however. Ancient grains usually give lower yields than modern varieties, which means they are more expensive to grow, and that cost is passed on to the consumer. Many countries also lack the machines and mills needed to process them on a large scale, and some shoppers are unfamiliar with how to cook them.
D Some nutrition experts warn that the label can be a marketing device, because the differences between these grains and other whole grains are often modest. Even so, many agricultural scientists welcome the trend, because growing a wider range of crops makes food supplies less dependent on a few species. In their view, the strongest case for ancient grains is not that they are healthier than everything else, but that they add diversity.